I think I just killed all my fish
|
|
Thread rating:  |
SA - 23 Feb 2004 01:45 GMT I cannot believe I did this but I think I managed to kill an entire tank of cichlids tonight. I am really bombed out about it.
I have a 45 gallon tank with some juveniles thriving for the past 3 months. Typically I changed the water once a month when I had some community fish in there and once the cichlids were really small. Today I decided to test for nitrates and switch to a biweekly water change. I had changed 25% two weeks ago. The nitrates were kind high so I decided to a more aggressive water change around 40% of the water, I used a python like I always do and filled the tank up with water close to temp as the tank. The thermometer did not register a temp change and the heater stayed up after it was full for maybe 3min I used a water treatment in the tank. immediately after this all my fish went to shock, sitting at the bottom of the tank still gasping for air. Couldn't understand what went wrong initially I thought they were just frightened because of the substrate vacuum etc.
Two hours later still gasping and one already dead... I'm afraid they will be more!
I am so mad right now.
Any comments as to what might have gone wrong are very much appreciated.
And just yesterday I was bragging about their colors and behavior to my wife, I screwed my self so bad.
TIA
Steve
JazzyB - 23 Feb 2004 01:53 GMT Sorry to hear that.
> I cannot believe I did this but I think I managed to kill an entire tank of > cichlids tonight. I am really bombed out about it. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Steve Mephistopheles - 23 Feb 2004 02:29 GMT > I cannot believe I did this but I think I managed to kill an > entire tank of cichlids tonight. I am really bombed out about [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Steve Did you put in dechlorinator BEFORE you added water? Meph
Rick - 23 Feb 2004 03:36 GMT > > I cannot believe I did this but I think I managed to kill an > > entire tank of cichlids tonight. I am really bombed out about [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Did you put in dechlorinator BEFORE you added water? > Meph why would that be necessary?. As long as you add the dechlorinator to the water it makes no difference if you do it before or during the process of adding the tap water. I use a python and always add dechlorinator while refilling and in 35 tanks I've never lost a fish during that process. Something else is wrong here, gasping for air could be an ammonia spike but why after a 40% water change?. Check with the water utility and make sure they have not switched to chloramines.
Rick
Dan J. S. - 23 Feb 2004 04:29 GMT > I cannot believe I did this but I think I managed to kill an entire > tank of cichlids tonight. I am really bombed out about it. [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > Steve Use Amquel next time. It's the best friend to a Python system. Works quick, and eliminates Nitrates and Ammonia.. nitrites too!!
Jeff Dantzler - 23 Feb 2004 19:08 GMT > Use Amquel next time. It's the best friend to a Python system. Works quick, > and eliminates Nitrates and Ammonia.. nitrites too!! Can you provide some support for the claim that Amquel eliminates nitrates? Where do they go?
From: http://www.novalek.com/kpd51.htm "AmQuel quickly and effectively removes ammonia, chlorine and chloramines"
Please think before you post erroneous information.
Jeff Dantzler
bannor - 23 Feb 2004 22:24 GMT http://www.novalek.com/kpd79.htm
2. A primary purpose in aquariums and ponds is to protect aquarium and pond fishes and invertebrates by quickly eliminating (actually detoxifying) the harmful components of the biological nitrogen cycle - ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates without slowing the nitrogen cycle (see KPD-64 "Biological Filtration"), or interfering with the beneficial bacteria involved, or depriving these bacteria of their food.
To control the toxic organic nitrogenous compounds of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate and other toxic organics that build up in aquariums and ponds from the excretion of body wastes by fishes, invertebrates, bacteria and other aquatic organisms start with a Standard Dose (see definition above). This Standard Dose will remove (detoxify) at least 1.2 mg/L (= approx.1,2 ppm) of all ammonia compounds, at least 2.0 mg/L (=2.0 ppm) of nitrites, and at least 13 mg/L (=13 ppm) of nitrates. We recommend only one standard dose per 24 hour period. The removal of these compounds will happen within five minutes, or slightly longer for ammonia at a higher pH above 7.5. It is important to understand that the amounts of organic compounds removed may vary with differing water conditions. The amounts indicated above are the minimums that AmQuel will detoxify, and what is removed may be up to several times higher. Use accurate test kits to check how much of each compound is being removed when using multiple doses (see the section in KPD-80 on "Water Quality Test Kits" under "Problems When Using Water Conditioners..."). Be aware that test strips may be insufficient to provide accurate readings; check liquid and powder reagents to be sure that they are not out-of-date.
So, according to their own support page, Amquel + does handle 13 ppm of nitrates.
>> Use Amquel next time. It's the best friend to a Python system. Works quick, >> and eliminates Nitrates and Ammonia.. nitrites too!! [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >Jeff Dantzler Dan J. S. - 24 Feb 2004 03:53 GMT >> Use Amquel next time. It's the best friend to a Python system. Works >> quick, and eliminates Nitrates and Ammonia.. nitrites too!! [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Jeff Dantzler Please practice what you preach!
http://www.novalek.com/kpd79.htm
Jeff Dantzler - 24 Feb 2004 04:46 GMT > >> Use Amquel next time. It's the best friend to a Python system. Works > >> quick, and eliminates Nitrates and Ammonia.. nitrites too!!
> Please practice what you preach!
> http://www.novalek.com/kpd79.htm I may have jumped the gun on this one...
However--Dan refered to "Amquel", which from the link I cited "Contains 100% sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate". This will do nothing to combat high nitrite or nitrate. It is to deal with chloramine and ammonia just as I asserted.
From http://www.novalek.com/kpd79.htm, "As a general rule, when using tap water in which chlorine and chloramines are present, but not nitrites, nitrates or other organics -- then it is safe to use the less expensive AmQuel. If there is the possibility of nitrites, nitrates and other organics being involved, then Amquel+ is recommended."
Amquel+ is not what Dan refered to.
I was not aware of the newer Amquel+ and Dan may have in fact meant to type Amquel+. Sorry for being too quick to criticize.
I am not a big fan of fancy products that magically make metabolites like nitrite or nitrate "dissappear". I assure you the nitrogen is still in the tank in one form or another.
The only way to get rid of the nitrogen is to do water changes, or to drive enough photosynthesis that the excess nitrogen gets locked up in plant biomass. You can also get fancy carbon or resin that will adsorb nitrite or nitrate, but I personally am not interested in being locking into buying such products on a monthly basis. Water changes are cheap.
Hope this clarifies.
Jeff Dantzler
Bitey - 24 Feb 2004 00:12 GMT Water heated up inside the tank or under pressure (your water heater) may cause gas emboli in fishes' gills with the symptoms you describe. This is a bigger problem in the winter when the cold tap water has more dissolved gas and with larger water changes. Water should be heated outside of the tank and at atmospheric pressure with some agitation to help de-gas the water. I have a powerhead pump the water several feet above the container with a heater and fall back into it. After several hours I add the replacement water to the tank over the course of several more hours.
If there were a significant number of bubbles forming, particularly on your heater or anything else glass, then you may have experienced this problem.
SA - 24 Feb 2004 00:52 GMT Thank you all for your responses. They are really appreciated, as of now my news are not so grim, I lost two fish. Last night after what happened I took one of the Yellow Labs that was floating upside down by the filter intake and put him in a small hospital tank. Today back from work the little fellow seems to be recovered, he's swimming around the tank and seems a lot better.
I should have done the same with the other two but they were difficult to catch and I didn't want to chase them around and stress them more. The one is definitely gone, the second's gills are still moving but he looks bad, I now have him in the hospital tank as well. I have read somewhere that sometimes they come back even after they have stayed motionless for a while. Not sure if there's any truth to that.
After reading your posts all day I realize that you all make some excellent points.
I too was not certain as to whether or not it was ok to use the python to fill the tank as opposed to a bucket of water that gets prepared first. But I figured many people use their python to fill their tanks and I have in the past also without an incident. I wasn't sure if adding the water treatment was supposed to be before adding new water or during, I figured during would be better.
The more I think of this the more Bitey's comment makes sense. At first I thought it may have been pH shock to the fish that did it. But I was puzzled indeed by the many little bubbles of air everywhere on the tank. On decorations, glass, even on some fish. At that time I thought it was a good thing thinking that I aerated the water stream enough when I was filling the tank - I read somewhere that some of the chlorine escapes by having the water come in under pressure and slash vigorously on the surface - in the past I used to add water in a much slower rate.
I know think a pH shock should have come slower to the fish, but I'm guessing here. I just checked the pH and it registers at typical levels, so either it shifted in 24 hours time or it was ok to begin with. I was not aware of "gas emboli" the way you described it one bit, but it almost sounds like the 'bends' with divers. Is this a correct analogy? This is great insight for all of us with tanks I think. I would have never thought of it. The rest of the fish seem to be doing fine now in the tank. The pl*co did not seemed phased at all but the cichlids felt it big time.
Will there be any future side effects from this ordeal in your estimation? If I was to use a python to fill a tank is there a way to avoid this or should I just skip to a water pump and a bucket?
Sorry for the long message but I feel that we all learned something here, I certainly did and I thank you again all for your time.
Regards
Steve
Rick - 24 Feb 2004 02:21 GMT > Thank you all for your responses. They are really appreciated, as of now my > news are not so grim, I lost two fish. Last night after what happened I took [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > > Steve I have water stored in my basement that I keep heated and agitated with an airstone and this water I use in a lot of my tanks. My 77g tank upstairs and my 50 g hex tank are both planted tanks that I use the Python on to do 50% weekly water changes. When I am finished my tanks are full of bubbles, the glass is covered, the plants are covered, everything is covered. I do this week after week after week and have never lost a fish. I live in Canada and the water does have more gas content than in summer however I have never experienced a problem. However like everything in this hobby, YMMV.
Rick
Bitey - 25 Feb 2004 03:04 GMT >I have water stored in my basement that I keep heated and agitated with an >airstone and this water I use in a lot of my tanks. My 77g tank upstairs and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >the water does have more gas content than in summer however I have never >experienced a problem. However like everything in this hobby, YMMV. You heat the water up first so that would lessen the problem.
When I did water changes in the summer, I would get a lot of bubbles, too, but no problems. I think bubbles are a indicator of dissolved gasses but the incoming water temperature determines the severity of the problem.
In the winter, fish would be seen hyperventilating and hanging out at the surface. If you do a water change, watch your fishes' respiratory rate afterwards or better yet, during.
It took me awhile to realize what the problem was (I finally did a Google newsgroup search). Search for gas bubble disease or gas emboli. Since then, I've been heating the water outside the tank and creating a waterfall with a powerhead. Then when I add the water hours later, gradually, there are no bubbles and no hyperventilating. Cichlids are pretty resistant to this but even they have limits. You might not reach them in the summer but a slightly bigger water change on a slightly colder day could do it.
Rick - 25 Feb 2004 15:50 GMT > >I have water stored in my basement that I keep heated and agitated with an > >airstone and this water I use in a lot of my tanks. My 77g tank upstairs and [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > reach them in the summer but a slightly bigger water change on a > slightly colder day could do it. the stored water is only because I have a R/O system in my house and I can't stand the amount of waste water it takes to create a gallon of r/o water which I use in a lot of my Corydoras tanks. I run a drain line to the basement from the R/O system and can keep 3 large plastic garbage bins full all the time. So seeing as how it is sitting there anyway I have a 200 watt heater in one bin and an airstone and I simply move them from bin to bin as I empty one or the other. I don't use any preheated and agitated water in my upstairs tanks. The Hex contains angel fish and the 77 planted is a community tank with loaches, bala sharks, platty's, cardinals, neon's, Molly's etc and like I say I add directly from the python to the tank. Never had a problem, no fish appear stressed at all. I also have Otto's in that tank and they are very susceptible to change in water conditons and they appear fine. Just my experience and my lack of problem certainly is not an indication that someone else may not have one.
Rick
Mephistopheles - 24 Feb 2004 04:48 GMT [Snip]
> I too was not certain as to whether or not it was ok to use the > python to fill the tank as opposed to a bucket of water that [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > supposed to be before adding new water or during, I figured > during would be better. [snip]
Steve,
In my experience, after reaching a certain threshold concentration, chloramine, a chlorine derivative common in many public water supplies, is instantly toxic to fish. Something in your post suggested to me that you might have added dechlorinator (most such products also neutralize chloramine) several minutes after completing your water change -- a water change that was more than usual. If that had happened, then there was a chance that you had poisoned your fish with chloramine. (Smaller water changes might not be enough to reach the toxic threshold, so you may never have noticed this before). I know this can happen because I did it once, when I was young and ignorant, to a tankful of Tanganyikans. However, if you were adding dechlorinator at the same time as adding water, then I would not think chloramine would be the explanation.
Regards, Meph
battlelance - 25 Feb 2004 12:58 GMT >However, if you were adding dechlorinator at the same time as adding >water, then I would not think chloramine would be the explanation. While we're on the subject of adding dechlorinator, would you add enough to treat a full tank or only the water you are changing?
I've always added enough to treat the entire tank, even if it was a 30% water change. A buddy of mine asked me why I did that, and I didn't have an answer - I -always- did it that way :)
Charlie Durand - 25 Feb 2004 22:10 GMT Do you live in the San Francisco Bay Area?
Cities that get their water from Hetch Hetchy added chloramines starting Feb 2.
I lost a tank of fish the hard way on this one.
You gotta remove the chloramines BEFORE they go in the tank. I had the same question.
> I cannot believe I did this but I think I managed to kill an entire tank of > cichlids tonight. I am really bombed out about it. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Steve
|
|
|