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Pet Forum / Aquaria / Goldfish / September 2004What is an acceptable level of amonia ?
Thanks for the previous replies. The 180 litre tank is all set up and working nicely. The fish are all happy. I have checked the amonia, nitrate, nitrite, ph. the amonia after one week is now 0.75 and I have changed 25% of the water. the nitrite was 0.25 Can someone tell me what is an acceptable level before I should do a water change ? NZed > Thanks for the previous replies. > The 180 litre tank is all set up and working nicely. The fish are all [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > NZed Ammonia level and nitrite level in a cycled tank should always be 0. Ammonia can burn your fish's sensitive tissue and is a big cause of death in new tanks. It's too late now to research fishless cycling, but you can try to jump start your bacteria colony if you know anyone that has a tank set up. Borrow some gravel or used filter media and but it in your filter. This should help along the cycle process. Tim www.fishaholics.org > Ammonia level and nitrite level in a cycled tank should always be 0. > Ammonia can burn your fish's sensitive tissue and is a big cause of death in [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Tim > www.fishaholics.org Not when it's cycling. The biobugs need food. 0.75 and 0.25 for ammonia and nitrite should be fine. If your fish look like they are suffering at all just do a water change. When cycling a tank you never want ammonia or nitrite to be 0 - only afterwards! > Not when it's cycling. The biobugs need food. 0.75 and 0.25 for ammonia > and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > only > afterwards! True, not when cycling. But there's already fish in the tank. The tank should have been cycled prior to adding fish. In this day of fishless cycling, bio-spira or just knowing enough to get some bacteria from a tank that's already set up, there's no reason to use fish to cycle a tank. Just my 2 cents worth. Tim www.fishaholics.org > > Not when it's cycling. The biobugs need food. 0.75 and 0.25 for ammonia > > and [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > www.fishaholics.org Bio Spira is not available in some regions - I've never seen it in the UK. > Not when it's cycling. The biobugs need food. 0.75 and 0.25 for ammonia and > nitrite > should be fine. those levels are fatal > > Not when it's cycling. The biobugs need food. 0.75 and 0.25 for ammonia and > > nitrite > > should be fine. > > those levels are fatal They are nowhere near fatal! >> > Not when it's cycling. The biobugs need food. 0.75 and 0.25 for >> > ammonia and nitrite [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > They are nowhere near fatal! We don't know the units or the type of test kit... -D  Signature"One ought, every day at least, to hear a little song, read a good poem, see a fine picture, and, if it were possible, to speak a few reasonable words." - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe during cycling ammonia and nitrites should be just barely detectable, like the first level detected by your test. do as big water changes as needed to get the levels down, do them as often as required to keep the levels down. add 1 teaspoon salt per 5 gallons of water. use solar or water softening salt with no additives. salt will be protective If you can get BIOSPIRA for the tank, the stuff really works to speed up the cycling cycling is going to take a month otherwise.. Ingrid >Thanks for the previous replies. >The 180 litre tank is all set up and working nicely. The fish are all happy. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > >NZed ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List Manager: Puregold Goldfish List http://puregold.aquaria.net/ www.drsolo.com Solve the problem, dont waste energy finding who's to blame ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unfortunately, I receive no money, gifts, discounts or other compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the endorsements or recommendations I make. Thanks for the feedback I did a one third water change and got the levels down. I havent cleaned the filter, anticipating doing that in about a month. After the tank has cycled. But have taken the point of adding more salt for the replacement water. NZed > during cycling ammonia and nitrites should be just barely detectable, like the first > level detected by your test. do as big water changes as needed to get the levels [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > compensation for all the damn work I do, nor for any of the > endorsements or recommendations I make. > Thanks for the feedback > I did a one third water change and got the levels down. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > NZed Only ever clean the filter when the intake slows down. There is no other reason to clean it, even if it looks dirty. Also remember to only clean it in tank water and to clean pads individually and not all at the same time. |
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