weight loss in rats?
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Trauma - 21 Feb 2005 23:49 GMT Has anyone got any tips to help my girl ruby lose some weight?
She was just a squishy rat for a while, but now she's getting to be plain old FAT.
Nothing varies in terms of treats, food or run-around time between her and the other girls, maybe i need to start chasing her around the lounge with a flyswat to keep her moving? heheh..
Any advice appriciated guys and girls.
-D
Phil L - 22 Feb 2005 00:00 GMT :: Has anyone got any tips to help my girl ruby lose some weight? :: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] :: :: -D I think, just like people some animals are naturally fat. I wouldn't worry about it too much, short of starving her, she's not going to lose any weight (same as us!) If she is getting her exercise via her wheel etc then she'll be fine, there's nothing wrong with a hearty appetite (coupled with regular exercise of course, which is where most humans go wrong) I once had the fattest mouse in the world!...she outlived *all* of her skinnier cagemates (no she didn't eat all their food!)
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Kate - 22 Feb 2005 01:13 GMT > Has anyone got any tips to help my girl ruby lose some weight? > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > -D I have to agree with Phil. As long as she is healthy then I wouldn't worry too much about it. Are you sure she isn;t pinching any food off the others? Is she the Alpha of the household? I know my Alpha Male is a porker but he is big all over, even his face looks a different shape to the others...LOL. I know he makes sure he is first in to get the best of any/everything that is going..
Regards Kate
Trauma - 22 Feb 2005 05:44 GMT No, she's not alpha, she's not stealing food, and she's not healthy.
She's lazy. that's what her problem is. When she gets out for a run around, she'll wobble her fat butt around the room for about 5 mins, then you'll see her slow down, then she'll find somewhere to go to sleep.
when i say she's fat. i mean it. she's at leath half the size again as her sister, same age.
She user to steal food from the other, but not anymore...
Hmph.
Tracey - 22 Feb 2005 12:23 GMT > Has anyone got any tips to help my girl ruby lose some weight? > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > -D I had a real porker of a male a few years ago and the vet warned me that he had to lose weight otherwise his health would suffer. Well, that rat just lived for food so putting him on a diet wasn't easy and I swear he fell out with me for the first few days!
I've never fed my rats a lot of high fat foods - only occasionally they get tidbits of things like cheese, crisps or chocolate. My problem was not thinking about all the hidden calories in some of the healthier foods. Some of the things I thought nothing of feeding my fattie rattie quite regularly were baked beans in tomato sauce, mashed poatoes, avocado pear and scrambled eggs - I didn't think about the hidden sugars in baked beans and never gave it a thought that things like scrambled eggs, potato and avocado pack quite a punch calorie-wise. I cut out all the higher calorie foods and switched his fresh food to low calorie veg only like carrots, swede, broccoli, cauliflower and cucumber. I also tried to encourage him to exercise more (not easy as he was a real laid-back cuddly lap rat!) - I got the clothes airer out and got him to climb up and down it for extra exercise. But changing what fresh foods I fed him was the major reason for his weight loss. He was never what you call slender but he lost enough weight for the vet to be satisfied with. When he'd lost his weight I started giving him some of his favourites again, but only a couple of times a week rather than daily.
Some rats are just more prone to be fatties - like us people, some can nosh on cream cakes and not put an ounce on whereas others just have to look at it to feel the flab appearing, lol!
Tracey
Joanne - 22 Feb 2005 13:59 GMT > Has anyone got any tips to help my girl ruby lose some weight? > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > -D A fat rat is definitely not a healthy rat. It can cause all kinds of health problems from enlarged kidneys to heart problems. Not to mention, it's harder for them to breathe. I would have your rat on a rat block only, and offer her fresh veggies daily and fruits. No table food, no human food either. Most of our foods have much too much fat and protein for our rats. No pasta, no meat, no nuts, nothing, just a rat pelleted food that is low in fat and protein and fresh daily veggies and fruits. Another thing you can do is have her work for her food. Have her climb to the top of the cage whenever she's hungry. Hide the food in different spots in the cage so she really has to search for it. During out time, bring her far from the cage and watch her run back to it, especially if you have a treat there waiting for her like 1 cheerio. Good luck!!
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paghat - 22 Feb 2005 15:59 GMT > > Has anyone got any tips to help my girl ruby lose some weight? > > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > treat there waiting for her like 1 cheerio. > Good luck!! Excellent advice all-round, though a diet of whole hard grains can be even better than lab-blocks. One sad part is to really control her diet she'd have to be isolated, then would suffer from loneliness, though with hard grains & complete absence of fatty seeds, such a fat-free diet can also be beneficial to rats who're not overweight. The most common improper food ingredient in purchased mixes is oily sunflower seeds -- which should be given to rats the way candybars are given to children, but so many seed-mixes are top-heavy with these pure-fat seeds.
Obese rats are prone to leg injuries. They live shorter lives & nearly always fall prey to lung disease.
Building a rattan-wrapped climbing surface with the food at the top of the upward climb might enforce a bit of exercise. Rats often love hammocks which can force them to climb even before taking a nap. The danger of such enforced exercise is a fat rat may leap from a climbing surface or cage wall, which is how so many fat rats injure their legs.
Rats can go a little crazy & become radical horders if they don't have access to food 24 hours a day. But with a diet of blochs or whole grains they are not apt to overeat even with constant access.
-paghat the ratgirl
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Keith Schiffner - 22 Feb 2005 17:23 GMT "paghat" SNIP Good advice, though sometimes you get one like my Eb who in spite of the food being at the TOP of the cage is still a "FB"
> Rats can go a little crazy & become radical > horders if they don't have > access to food 24 hours a day. But with a diet > of blochs or whole grains > they are not apt to overeat even with constant > access. Uh, sometimes. Natasha and Ellie are outrageous hoarders! They get a 1/2 cup of mix every day and a 4 block EACH. Do they eat it? Do they let it sit? Noooo, they gather it up and stick it in a corner for later. I swear they are worse than my wife is about left overs...
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Cindy - 22 Feb 2005 18:27 GMT > Excellent advice all-round, though a diet of whole hard grains can be > even better than lab-blocks. One sad part is to really control her [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > are given to children, but so many seed-mixes are top-heavy with > these pure-fat seeds. I feed mine lab blocks and seed mix, but I don't really know how much they should have. They climb the cage every time I'm in the room, so I can't tell by their behaviour whether they're hungry. Is there a certain number of blocks each that they should get? I usually just fill the bowl. Nobody's fat yet, and there's lots of food in the corners, so I figure they're okay. Every once in awhile I give them a piece of bread or vegetable for a treat.
I still have to make hammocks for them. I looked at them in the pet store, but they're expensive for something that I figure is going to be chewed up.
Cindy
Joanne - 22 Feb 2005 19:48 GMT >> Excellent advice all-round, though a diet of whole hard grains can be >> even better than lab-blocks. One sad part is to really control her [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Cindy I give my rats unlimited rat blocks. They certainly don't gorge themselves on them. lol
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paghat - 22 Feb 2005 21:46 GMT > I feed mine lab blocks and seed mix, but I don't really know how much they > should have. They climb the cage every time I'm in the room, so I can't > tell by their behaviour whether they're hungry. Is there a certain number > of blocks each that they should get? I usually just fill the bowl. Rats won't overeat lab blocks or hard whole grains, so they can have access to food around-the-clock & not very likely get overweight. But most of those commercial seed mixes are very unhealthy & have lots of fatty seeds (sunflower seeds, safflower seeds, & sometimes even peanuts) -- these encourage them to gorge themselves most unhealthily, especially if they're in competition with cage mates for the most candy-like stuff, & that's the sort of stuff they should have access to only as occasional special treats.
-paggers
> Nobody's fat yet, and there's lots of food in the corners, so I figure > they're okay. Every once in awhile I give them a piece of bread or [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Cindy  Signature Get your Paghat the Ratgirl T-Shirt here: http://www.paghat.com/giftshop.html "History, I believe, furnishes no example of a priest-ridden people maintaining a free civil government." -Thomas Jefferson
Kate - 22 Feb 2005 23:31 GMT >>Excellent advice all-round, though a diet of whole hard grains can be >>even better than lab-blocks. One sad part is to really control her [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Cindy For hammocks just cut up old pieces of sweatshirts, towels, pillowcases. I wouldn't waste money on buying hammocks when they will be chewed up..:)) ( if you use towels watch out for loose threads as these can cause ankle injuries).
Regards Kate
Igenlode - 22 Feb 2005 23:40 GMT [snip]
> A fat rat is definitely not a healthy rat. It can cause all kinds of health > problems from enlarged kidneys to heart problems. Not to mention, it's [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > No pasta, no meat, no nuts, nothing, just a rat pelleted food that is low in > fat and protein and fresh daily veggies and fruits. My Rexie has never been fed on anything else but pellets (well, bar the occasional crust or half-grape, once a week at most...)
When I first had the three she was bottom of the pecking order, very small, and wouldn't even venture out of the cage for months. When the original alpha female, Lulu, had an operation and had to be isolated for a couple of weeks, Rexie took over as the new alpha, and this continued even after Lulu was reintroduced into the cage. During this period she got extremely fat, eventually twice the size of the other two, who both lost weight.
With Lulu dead and Tallulah in isolation, Rexie no longer has anyone to boss around... and she seems to be losing weight :-( She's still squishy, but she's got folds of loose skin when you pick her up. I don't know if she's pining, or if the trouble is that it's so cold at the moment that she can't be bothered to leave her bed-chamber and go all the way down to the food-bowl -- I've found large amounts of food squirrelled away in her bed the last couple of times I've cleaned her out.
I assumed it was just a status thing.
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