Been a long time since I've been on the newsgroup (my program trashed m
history, and I never fixed it until now)
I have a large 150 gallon rubbermaid-esque sump that I am placing
large polyethylene container inside of. I need to find a way to get th
container to stick to the bottom when water is in it (this is acting as a
overflow, so the outside water is higher than the inside water). There i
a lot of surface area on the bottom of this container (greater than
square foot) so I was thinking that I might be able to get away wit
silicone even though it doesn't stick well to plastics. Does anyone know o
anything better
Thanks
Jare
David Zopf - 26 Oct 2005 14:38 GMT
> Been a long time since I've been on the newsgroup (my program trashed my
> history, and I never fixed it until now).
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> anything better?
> Thanks,
Hi,
Tough application. PE is typically electo-welded in industry to get good
bond strength, and is not amenable to most adhesives. The fact that you
only need it to not float may be a saving feature, though. The actual bond
strength you need will be relatively low. Putting a weight in the PE
container as an added measure is a good idea. I'd take a shot at it with a
multipurpose silicone or marine adhesive from your DIY store, and leave a
weight in the bottom of the PE container (1/2 - 2/3 the weight of the
container in aquarium gravel?) after welding.
Pre-treat the PE before trying to bond it, too. Clean your rubbermaid
container with acetone, and allow to dry. If you have a blow torch, go over
your PE bond surface quickly with a (cool) yellow flame, until the surface
becomes shiny. This will burn off any processing oils or detritus, and
oxdize the PE a bit, giving you your best surface for bonding. The PE
should be allowed to cool after this treatment, but be sure to not touch the
bonding surface after doing so, and bond the surfaces immediately once the
PE part can be handled (you can check temperature carefully on the interior
bottom of the PE container). If you don't have a torch, at least clean both
surfaces with acetone, and allow them to dry before trying your bond...
Good luck!
Regards
R. David Zopf
Atom Weaver
Wayne Sallee - 26 Oct 2005 16:16 GMT
The amount of force that will try to lift the container
will be equall to the volume of air in container that is
equivilant to the difference in water level. So if your
container is completely empty, and the water around it is
all the wat to the top of the container, then the upward
force will be the same as the downward force that the
container would have sitting on the floor full of water.
That's a lot of force to try to keep down.
Also the way those containers are designed if flexable,
they hold an outward force better than an inward
(crushing) force. However if your inside containger is
verry rigid and round like a 5 gallon bucket, then it will
better handel that crushing force. You might also consider
puting the inside container against the side of the sump,
and drilling some holes throught. Hold it together with
plastic bolts, and use some silicone around the perimiter
of the hole to act as a rubber seal.
Or how about putting a bulkhead in the side of the sump,
and using pvc pipe.
Wayne Sallee
Wayne's Pets
Wayne@WaynesPets.com
thePoet wrote on 10/25/2005 8:32 PM:
> Been a long time since I've been on the newsgroup (my program trashed my
> history, and I never fixed it until now).
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Jared
thePoet - 27 Oct 2005 00:36 GMT
The containers are very solid, mid-density, polyethylene "buckets
designed to hold all sort of nasty chemicals. They're very solid and I don'
expect them to have issues with the outside force. They are currentl
connected, via vinyl tubing and bulkheads, to the outside of the of th
water trough . The in-flow container will be full at all times. Th
outflow container will be 3/4 full of water and the air space would equa
around 3 gallons. So, I'd guess 25 to 34 pounds worth. I can't easil
place sand at the bottom since it is acting as an overflow
Jare