> Can someone direct me to factual info re the efficacy of this vaccine?
> I have an eight month old shorthair who will be hunting in rattlesnake
> areas this fall.
.........don't know, but if it's a legal injectible drug labeled for dogs,
FDA/CVM ought to have the actual research study information on it. Or check
the manufacturer site and get the NADA (New Animal Drug Approval) number and
search it on FDA/CVM. Or it might be under the Biologicals section where
the vaccines are, come to think of it.
Happy Googling......
buglady
take out the dog before replying
> Can someone direct me to factual info re the efficacy of this vaccine?
Other than the info from the manufacturer itself, I found tht UC Davis is
not currently recommending this vaccine due to the lack of sufficient
information regarding the efficacy of the vaccine.
http://www.vmth.ucdavis.edu/vmth/clientinfo/info/genmed/vaccinproto.html

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HOWEDY johnrosoff,
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> Can someone direct me to factual info re the efficacy of this vaccine?
Vaccines have a HISTORY of killin the critter they're
suppHOWESED to PROTECT, like sue's DEAD DOG
Jadee, from Lyme DIS-EASE "vaccine" <{): ~ ( >
> I have an eight month old shorthair who will be
> hunting in rattlesnake areas this fall.
"I would have killed every last one of those stinking
vermin" and not worry abHOWET the vaccine or preferably
TRAIN the dog to avoid snakes, but you'd have to know HOWE.
> Thanks for the help and suggestions.
From: Paul B (pand...@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Can pack leader influence rank?
Date: 2002-02-25 00:51:48 PST
I use sound to distract the dog and praise it immediately.
The reason for the immediate praise is that as soon as the
dog is distracted it's no longer thinking of the inappropriate
behaviour so the praise reinforces the "not doing" the unwanted
behaviour.
I use various sound sources, a soda can with stones in it,
car keys, click my fingers, etc. Varying the direction of
the sound each time is important too, otherwise the dog may
begin to anticipate the sound and it will lose it's effect,
if the noise direction is random the dog won't get too familiar
with it and it will remain an effective distraction.
Remember too that we aren't trying to scare the bejesus
outta the dog, simply breaking it's train of thought while
it's thinking of the unwanted behaviour.
Sometimes you won't even see a reaction but the dog will
have been distracted fleetingly. (Recently one of my dogs
started habitually licking my feet while I was watching
TV, I clicked my fingers on her left side and told her
"good girl" even though she only paused her licking briefly,
next I clicked over her right side and praised, by about
the 4th repeat she suddenly stopped, I repeated this over
a few nights and now she doesn't lick any more, on the
few occasions she absent mindedly licks now all I do is
click and praise and she immediately stops).
Timing is important too, learn to anticipate when the dog
is thinking about doing the "dirty deed" and distract and
praise then, with any luck the dog will try again almost
immediately so distract and praise again, if the timing
is correct after about the 4th rep the dog will stop.
I could go on but this post is long enough already,
remember too that the dog isn't being a "bad dog",
it's behaviour is simply inappropriate for the circumstances.
Happy training, :-)
Paul
------------
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpaulbou...@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Re: Dog vs cat food (stealing cat food)
Date: 2001-03-03 22:18:03 PST
It's possible to teach a dog not to eat out
of a cat bowl without too much difficulty.
My dogs don't touch the food in the cat bowls
although Roz licks up any bits that have been
dropped around the bowls :-)
I used a can with stones in it to create a distraction
anytime the dogs tried to eat the cats food, followed
with immediate praise.
It worked a treat.
The cats bowls are down all the time, usually
there is food left over but the dogs don't eat it,
even if we go out and leave the dogs with
access inside through a dog door.
Paul
Paul B <pand...@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message
> > > "James Roberts" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
> > > news:3C637444.20DD6735@privacy.net...
>
> > I have downloaded and have read Jerry's
> > Wit's End document. Ignoring what you
> > think of his participation, what is your
> > assessment of the merits of his techniques?
Hello James,
I have used his recommended techniques and
ideas with great success, and over the period
I've used these methods the more I've become
to understand and appreciate how his methods
work and how effective they can be if carried
out correctly.
His manual isn't conventional and as such
gets critisized and misunderstood. The basic
concept is to allow the dog to choose whatever
behaviour it wants for any situation but to
distract (and immediately praise ) it from
behaviours we deem undesirable, because of
the correctly timed distractions repeated
usually about 4 times (in each location) the
dog decides of it own accord that this behaviour
is undesriable and therefore pursues something
else, if that behaviour is also inappropriate
to us then we carry on distracting, very soon
the dog finds a behaviour that is mutually acceptable.
The benefits of this type of approach are
numerous, Firstly we aren't challenging
the dog so there is no conflict so the dog
does't develop any possible negativity to
us, the dog decides of it own free will that
a behaviour is unsatisfying so chooses to
cease it (in other words even if we are gone
the dog won't have any desire to pursue that
behaviour i.e. bin raiding etc).
I would recommend his manual.
Paul
"Paul B" <pand...@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message
Bollocks, the manual has no dangerous suggestions at
all, people who find the manual useful are those that
don't need to control a dog to satisfy their own ego
but simply want a well behaved dog that is easy to
live with. I would suggest the people who follow the
advice in his manual are people who have already
tried other inefficient methods and are fed up with
the poor results.
The more I think about the methods he suggests the
more sense it makes, the biggest problem is people
believe they have to be in control of the dog, tell it
whats right and wrong, dogs don't understand
our values and I don't believe they are capable of
understanding them either, so to train them we use
methods they understand.
That means abstract training, doing sometimes
what appears to almost be the opposite of what
makes sense to us.
If you are purely result orientated then you will not
find Jerry's manual much use, if you love your dogs
and love to work WITH them then his manual is
your dream come true. Distraction and praise works
with any dog, when you sit back and really think about
it, it's very obvious why.
When a dog is properly distracted (and praised) of a
particular behaviour then that behaviour very quickly
becomes unfulfilling so the dog will no longer have any
interest in pursuing it, whether we are about or not,
thats the key to stopping garbage can raids and food
stealing etc etc, no force, no bad dog, just distracting it
in an appropriate manner that it no longer wishes to
pursue that behaviour.
Better than hiding the garbage can eh?
Paul
---------------
From: AIMEE (countrygirl0...@yahoo.com)
Subject: House training and such...
Date: 2003-10-08 16:18:56 PST
I've been having a problem with my dog, Axel,
relieving himself in the house while I'm away
from home.
I've used TPW method's, and yesterday I was out
for 12 hours, and Axel didn't have one single "accident".
Today, I had hoped that the results would be just as
good - and they were (I was out for 11 hours).
The problem began when, as a puppy, Axel would
relieve himself in the house and I would point at the
mess and tell him "NO" or "Bad Dog".
That made him afraid to relieve himself in the house
or infront of me.
After I got TPW's training manual, I corrected my
mishandling of these instances.
When I came home to an "accident", I would simply
drop a can near the area and ask Axel "What's that?"
Then I would clean it up - with out showing him I was
the least bit upset about the mess, and when he looked
at the spot I would tell him "Good boy, you're a good dog".
This has been an ongoing problem, and thanks to the
Puppy Wizard, we've finally got it taken care of...
Also, Axel LOVES the cat's litter box...He enjoys the
"snacks" he can find in there...I followed TPW's methods
by alternating sounds and praising him while or before
he sticks his nose in it, and today, he's been going into
the room with the cat box and barking. That's because
he's thinking about getting into the box, but he knows he
shouldn't.
Thank you, Jerry, for all you help. You've been a
blessing to all of us.
AIMEE
===================
> John
You COULD train your dog NEARLY INSTANTLY to naturally want
to DO ANY THING YOU ASK if you only knew HOWE but you'd
have to DO EVERY THING EXXXACTLY OPPOSITE of HOWE you
do NHOWE <{) ; ~ ) >
Animal Behavior Forensic Sciences Research Laboratory
From: John Rosoff
Date: Sat, Aug 31 2002 12:58 pm
Email: johnros...@msn.com (John Rosoff)
Groups: alt.med.veterinary
My nine year old german shorthair has watery stools after passing a
solid stool each morning. My vet prescribed a medicine to slow down
the bowel which takes care of it for a while, but when I stop the
medicine the prob recurs. Her stool has lots of mucus in it but no
blood and the vet did not find any parasites. He, the vet, suggests
that the problem is due to excitement of working out getting ready for
the upcoming hunting season which causes mild colitis. Her exercise is
quite mild, however. I've changed her diet to Iams lamb and rice which
helps and I'm looking for home remedies or suggestions.
Thanks for answering,
John
Johnros...@msn.com
Subject: Four month old puppy
From: johnrosoff Rosoff - view profile
Date: Tues, Feb 28 2006 11:49 am
Groups: rec.hunting.dogs
My pup is 7months old. Our quail and chukar seasons were very good this
year because of big rains last winter so I had a great advantage. I
took her pheasant hunting in November just to get her some exercise
that was her first experience. No shooting over her except for a cap
gun at that time. Opening of chukar season we camped out and again just
let her smell around and graduated to 22blanks. No birds but sight
pointed a couple of killed birds my friends got. But in December I shot
20gauge shell while she was chasing valley quail, and darned if I
didn't kill her first quail in late December. This followed by hunting
quail every week for one morning, maybe 2 hours and by season's end I
had killed maybe ten also two chukars. She was difficult to housebreak
but we've done that 98-99% now. Most importantly she knows what come
means and responds 80-90%. We're working on obedience training now I.e.
heel, sit, down, come. For the last two weeks I'm concentrating on
retrieving and she does it pretty well.
Additionally, I had her spayed a month ago and she's healing well.
Writing this all down I know it sounds like a lot of BS and that I have
put the pup under a lot of unnecessary pressure and if I were reading
this I'd say the same but every word is true believe it or not. Sophie
came from hunting stock in Michigan, I live in southern CA, L.A. a huge
megalopolis with no place anymore to let my dogs run so it is difficult
having bird dogs. I tell you all of this because if you have the time,
and you are motivated and willing and most importantly have the time as
I do, retired and an understanding mate and also read a lot about what
you set out to do you can accomplish a great deal during those early
months. I never would have believed it myself but it is true. I spend a
couple of hours each day with my pup divided into brief periods on my
hobby so my case is not typical. Do be careful not to put too much
pressure on the young dog but on the other hand with gentleness and
understanding you can do a lot in the next months before the seasons
open again. Hope this is helpful.
John Rosoff
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
My Website is:
http://www.geocities.com/johnrosoff/john_edward_rosoff.index.html<http://www.geo
cities.com/johnrosoff/john_edward_rosoff.index.html>